May 2001

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May, 7  •   May, 11  •   May, 19

May, 7     TOP

you finish your entry for the diary, don't think anything will happen and then it's always still something to write about.
when i came back from the internet cafe i thought of having a fag on the terrace, watching the street. well, someone called mamretha started talking to me, fair enough, telling me like we were similar, he was looking for a friend, if i could be his friend. i actually told him that there was not a long time to build up a friendship with me leaving next morning. but he was going on and then wanted to have a talk with me in my room - i can imagine what kind of talk he wanted to have! you wouldn't believe how fast i was leaving.

anyway, next morning (may, 1st time is running) i went on the bus to sihanoukville. after about half the way our bus broke down! but about five minutes later was another bus coming so we went on with that one. i actually sat next to a guy from new york and started talking to him. it was really good and alan asked me if we could go to the same hotel. funny thing is, we really tried to walk up to the hotel (not a good idea, it's quite far and bloody hot). we refused every motorcycle till a car stopped and told us he was the free pick up from the hotel we wanted to stay in - i didn't know that there was something like this, great! we decided to share a room which was alright. so first thing to do in sihanoukville is going for a swim.
at the beach were just a few people (heaps of kids) and the water was the warmest water i've ever been in. we had some fun with the kids, throwing them into the water etc. but after a while it was really enough. i went for a shower and thought of resting a bit, of course i felt asleep. later on i walked from the hotel along victory beach down to the independence hotel (it's been told that it is an enchanted place) and along independence beach and after awhile i figured out that it won't be long till it would be dark and was somewhere in the middle of nowhere. so i stopped a motorcycle and asked him to bring me into sihanoukville (i'm glad i didn't try to walk the rest). there was not a lot to do in sihanoukville, so i had just some kind of caramalized jackfruit with crushed ice, soyamilk and sweetened condensed milk, a bit too sweet for me, i couldn't finish all of it, but it was not too bad. back at the hotel i had a chat with alan (i don't know which subject we left out) and then started reading "the climb".

next morning i thought i should go for a walk and then get a motocycle to get to the kbal chhay waterfalls. the walk started quite well. i went down to the fishervillage, had a drink somewhere and thought about nothing bad when i had a look to my left and saw a big rainfront coming towards me. i just got on the next motorcycle (there is never a shelter when you need one) and told him to bring me back. a bit to late actually, after five minutes i was completly soaked, there was no dry part on my body left. when i got back to the hotel i tried to rinse my clothes as good as i could before going inside. alan was still in bed, dry!!! when i came back, he left after the rain... i stayed a bit longer, reading a bit. but then i got a driver to bring me to the waterfall and up to sihanouk mountain where the wat leu is.. it was a nice trip and i just saw very few people (most people stay around the beaches). that night alan and i sat up for a while chatting, he's really nice, and after he left i talked to someone from bochum! the best thing actually was that there was a group of four germans sitting together, a couple and two women and they reminded me extremly of loriot and "der kosackenzipfel".

on thursday i left with a sharetaxi to get to kampot. sharetaxi means you sit in a fiveseated car with minimum 8 people. to get all inside means the driver is sharing his seat with someone. it's quite an experience!

in kampot i had a walk around the village, just needed a bit exercise after that drive and back in the hotel, just having something for lunch, ange came in. we started talking to each other, trying to guess where we were from to figure out we were both from germany and born in lower saxony. we had a nice chat, but i felt really tired so went for a nap in my room. later on we decided to go out for dinner, but around 7.30 pm nearly everything was closed. eventually we found a place (opening the lids, what's that? don't know, but looks good and it's the last dish they have...) and it was really good although they always chop the meat with the bones so you've gor heaps of little pieces of bones in your food and ange got the chickenfoot). it was a great night, so we decided to get something nice and sit on the terrace of our hotel. we actually found a really good chocolate toffee, got a bottle of warm beer (can we have a cold one, icy you know... we got a piece of ice in a plasticbag, but who cares). the moon was amazing that night i haven't seen anything like this before. it was quite misty and dizzy and there was a circle around the moon, not connected but just around it with a fair bit of a distance. so we sat on the balcony, having warm beer, toffee, watching the moon and making plans for the next day.

i have to stop now, because the program of the next day was not good for my back and i've been sitting here for a while. perhaps there is an affordable internetcafe in siem reap, otherwise just wait. (in sihanoukville was an internetcafe which would have costed $18 an hour!!!)
May, 11     TOP

so where does this hurting back come from, good question. ange and i wanted to go to bokor hill station, a nationalpark near to kampot. so either you take a car for $40 or a four wheel drive for $60 or you drive an enduro for $6 (plus $7 for petrol) or you hire a driver with a motocyclo for $10. the first two opportunities were just to expensive and neither ange nor i can drive a motorbike, so we got two drivers. besides the seat there was nothing really to hold onto on this bikes and the road up to bokor hill station is the worst i've ever been on with a bike. it's about 32 km long and there is not really a relaxing part inbetween. my driver was kind out of mind, trying to race up the hill, sliding sideways half the time and i didn't feel safe with him. i actually asked myself if he has ever been on that road before.

anyway our first stop was at a kind of a restaurant after a 12km drive (the whole drive is about 42km). there we met willi from hannover, seems to be a meeting of lower saxony. he was on his way up with an enduro and i must say i was really jealous. we actually spent the whole day together, meeting again and again at the different points.

before we left we got this nice information someone had put together about bokor. the description of the climate is good: "bokor is 1070m high and as a special climate often humid, windy and can be quite cool to cold specially if you stay over night. it is often humid, and you can pass from a real london frog (i like that one) or heavy tropical rain to a perfect blue sky very quickly day. the weather can be different than the one in kampot, and bokor climate take quite some freedom with the dry season. it is part of its charm!"

anyway after some papaya and pineapple we drove further up to the sihanouk residence. you have got a great view from there down to kampot and kep and the sea. on top of bokor hill you find one of these places where you can imagine how people find there horrorstories. the casino is a huge ruin standing on top of a hill and with the right amount of clouds it's easy to think about "shining" and jack nicholson appearing from the middle of nowhere. another nice description: "by froggy (!) weather the view is let's say not so nice but it worth going inside the casino for the atmosphere." we've spent quite a long time in and around the casino, exploring and imagine to stay there with a nice bunch of people overnight. (karsten and ralf, this is the place for a tangofilm, you can't find anything better. it's just not really around the corner from dortmund...)

after sitting for ages on these bikes ange and i went for a short walk down to the old catholic church, got a stunning view from there up to the casino and then got back on the bikes (feeling sore in every part of our body). next stop was the popokvil waterfall (the place where the cloud turn). so what does this information say about it: "there are quite nice specially when there is water!!! but even in dry season it is a nice bit of walk. after the bifurcation between the road to the casino and the waterfall you drive 3kms then you arrive to a dead end for the vehicle but not for you... you can cross the wooden bridge and reach the waterfall in a 20 - 30 minutes walk. just follow the pass, after going up a bit you will have a ruin house on your left (with a small pass) but you continue on the main pass quite large with some stones (it is an old road) going slowly down, then you will see a sign waterfall on your left and just follow the small way (if you miss it you must be drunk, but don't worry, you will be stop by a river that you can follow on your left to find the way back). this small way will cross a small river on a tree bridge, then continue to the main river which arrive in the waterfall. it's worth crossing the river, as on the other size there is a pass to go to the foot of the waterfall.". of course it's still dry season and there is just very little water, but it's still a nice walk and a nice spot to sit, have a cool down in the water and have a picnic (the cookies we bought the day before didn't get better, still tasted like cheap chewing gum, but we finished them all).

anyway, after a while we had to go back. i wasn't really looking forward to go back on that bike with my driver. i told him to drive slower, that i don't want to be kicked off that bike. he wouldn't listen... sitting on the back i was thinking what kind of tortures i could do to him till he nearly kicked me off the motorbike. in the last second i got my right foot on the ground after sliding to the left and right and of course twisted my foot - thank you, that was it. we actually arrived back at this restaurant and i was limping to one of the chairs quite angry with my driver. the stupid thing is, you don't know where to put your foot and there were still about 20 km to go, but only 10 on this bad road.

anyway back at the hotel i told our hotelmanager i don't want that driver back the next day. he smiled and said "yes yes" and i wasn't sure he got the message, so i told him again, same reaction. just see what will happen. that evening ange, willi and i went out for dinner (great places here). someone started talking to us, dara, another driver.... (they've got heaps of them) in the first place i was abit annoyed but in the end i was pretty sure that's my driver for the next day. dara is full of riddles and jokes, speaks good english and is just great fun. so back at the hotel i told the manager i had found a new driver. we'll see what happens next day. on the terrace we met jan from canada, had a short chat (i was just too tired) and decided to meet next morning again for the next trip.
May, 19     TOP

may 5th, saturday morning and people started knocking on my door, trying to get in and actually three young men got into my room although i had locked the door! they were looking for some of the guests of the wedding next door and i think they were a bit shocked when they saw, they entered the wrong room.

anyway for us it was a good day to go to kep. ange, jan (from canada) and i went with our drivers on a trip to kep. we got this leaflet from our hotel and explained them what we wanted to see. the first place to go gave them a bit of a problem, they've never heard about mr. chean. so we tried to follow the instructions of the leaflet. funny thing was our drivers didn't believe it ("they say 500m but it's more 1km") just to figure out they took the wrong turn off and that they had to go back.
but by taking the wrong way we got to a small place in the saltfields and three boys came up with fresh honey they just found and gave us some, which was great. after that we drove back and did follow the instruction and found mr. chean and his family. he's a fisherman and takes people out to the sea on one of his boats. it was a nice trip, not spectacular but very peaceful and we could make a few nice shots. back at his home we had a chat with him and his family (with dara as our translator).
from there we went to kep and the seafoodmarket, great place to go for lunch, although with the word seafoodmarket i was expecting something like a market where they just sell seafood and you can ask around to find someone to cook it for you. but it was one foodstall next to the other. it looked so delicious that ange and i decided to share again and have a seafoodfeast. so we ordered crabs and fish and squid and rice. we got a bloody lot and offered jan a to share our crabs (a whole plate full).
we spent there quite a while and i must say it was a great lunch, watching the pigs on the beach (!), all the people around and enjoying our food (it takes you a while to eat crabs, especially when there are fresh from the grill). after lunch our drivers joined us and dara gave us some bracelets he bought from one of the women for us.

driving along the beach is a bit spooky, there are heaps of abandoned houses, it was a beachresort through the 60s and all these houses are ghosthouses now.
from the foodmarket we went to sihanouks residence on top of a small hill. you've got a nice view from there on the beach and it's a spot for couples to have taken there weddingphotos. so we met the couple who's wedding was next to our hotel that day there. she had min. two different dresses with her for these photos and two photographers and a woman to help her changing her outfit. we didn't stay too long there, it was not that much to see besides the view. our drivers thought we should see the old residence as well. it's a nice old ruin where there is a family now living in and i think they didn't like it that much that we were having a look round there (they had a beautiful pig in one of the rooms). afterwards we cruised around a bit and then decided to go to the beach and have a time out there. we spent hours laying in the shade, having a little nap, watching a mad chicken (i think it has watched "chickenrun") and just enjoy the little breeze. on the way back we wanted to make a stop at sa sir hill. i'm not sure if dara and ange's driver didn't understand us proper or just didn't want to go but we found us back in kampot - without jan!
later the three of us went out for dinner, joined by a guy jan had met before. coming back to our hotel the wedding was still going on and there was no chance to have a sleep because of the music. so we did the same as our hotelowner, sitting up having some beer. i got my binoculars out so we could follow the party (is that karaoke or a lifeband?!).

next morning ange left to go back to sihanoukville and i went with dara to kampong trach hill. just a few words about it from my leaflet: "it is a special hill which is empty in the middle like a chimney of a volcano, but it not volcanic but from the erosion (we think). for the one who like special site it worth the taft road to go there from kep. on the way you will see the nice country side and give you an idea of what a district town look like and how much improvement the infastructure still required in the countryside. ... you go round the hill by the right and after a few hundred meter you will reach a pagoda here you are! there is a hole in the hill (large tunnel) to go in the middle there is an other way out and some cave near by. let the children guide you."
of course the place is worth going but the drive to it is as worth as the hill itself. you really go through rural cambodia, some villages don't even see foreigners very often and it's quite poor. especially the area where the khmer rouge started to settle down in 1995 is a poor area. during the rainseason everything is completely flooded and because the roads are just sand- or dirtroads you can imagine how it will look like when the rain starts. some of the roads are even on a lower level the the fields, so no way to get anywhere on them.
arriving at the hill we met an 86 year old woman who's been living in one of the caves which used to be a temple for the last 15 years. her husband was killed under pol pot and she's been living under difficult circumstances. when she arrived at that place there where a lot of shrubs and trees growing around there with a lot of snakes of which she was very scared.
now there is a temple built next to it and she's got two students living with her. the hill itself is not very big but it seems there is a quite big cavesystem connecting all the hills around. mainly the caves are flooded but in a few you can walk in (clever me took a torch with me). we actually walked through one cave to the outside of the hill then uphill into another cave. some parts are pretty safe to walk through but to go further you would need proper gear and perhaps more knowledge then i have. but it was great fun! we had some kids and a man coming with us and for a while i could only sit on one place because everyone else was having my torch!
anyway, leaving the hill i had a chat with one of the buddhist monks who tried his english (not to bad) on me and of course asked me for a donation because they are still building their monastry ("a bit money for cement"). so if anyone will get there in a few years time you will probably see my name on one of the walls.
we had a stop in kampong trach for lunch and then drove back on a different way (i'm not sure if dara is not a bit stubborn, he always goes where he wants to go and not where i'm telling him). on the way back he saw a friend of his in a village and actually asked me if i would like to drink sugarcane juice, not mentioning that he wanted to talk to his frind. it was obvious so i told him if you want to have a chat with that guy just say it, we can stop, but don't think i'm an idiot. of course we had our sugarcane juice and after about ten minutes i felt like being in a zoo, the only difference, there was no fence and i was the animal. nearly half the village was gathering around me (even the men), making comments, staring at me... of course nobody spoke english so dara had to be my translator again. he told me there hasn't been any foreigner in that village for quite a while and mainly they just drive through but never stop. funny experience!
on the way back to kampot i had my stop at sa sir hill this time! sa sir hill "it is a small hill full of charm. even if is not high (30, 40 m ?) the view is nice on the rice field, the salt field, the sea. kampot and bokor. it is in the compound of a pagoda, and there are a lot of trees and some flowers. you pass a sala (big open room where the monks are taking there meals) and claim the stairs to a new temple. in front of the temple there are two ways with stairs one on the left and one on the right..." it was really a nice view and i spent a bit time walking around.
back in kampot i had a bit relaxing time. then jan came back who had spent the day with his friend on bokor hill. we met for dinner with dara, my last day in kampot, and later on we sat up for a while at the hotel. actually terben (from holland), jan and i wanted to drink palmwine, just try it, so jan drove off with one of the guys from the hotel in search for palmwine while terben and i stayed behind and had a chat. it took them ages to come back and they couldn't find any palmwine. perhaps i'll have the chance to try it later somewhere else.

next morning jan went in a sharetaxi to sihanoukville and terben and i took a minibus to phnom penh. i had a few things to do in town, got everything sorted easily and didn't do anything special that day. while having dinner i met terben again and had a chat with him. later i sat on the patio of my hotel and was talking to ross from sydney, who had just arrived in phnom penh that day.
i'm not sure if this travelling is good for my biorhythm. every morning i either have to get up between 5 and 6 o'clock or i'm just awake without any reason.

okay, on tuesday there was a reason again, catching the boat to siem reap at 6.30 am. the boattrip was not very exciting for me. i can't sit on the roof without getting grilled so i have to stay inside. inside it's completely crowded so the best way for me was making a bit space on the ground, lay down with the feet under the staircase and try to have a bit of a sleep. getting off the boat later on is very interesting:
you try to find your backpack (it took me ages), get off the boat, try not to fall in the water, get into the next boat, get a bit closer to the shore, get off the boat, climb over a few more boats to reach some small planks, walk over them with people trying to overtake you, try not to fall in the water again and then finally get onto the shore and into a minibus which brings you over a bumpy road to siem reap in about half an hour. i'm always quite exhausted after my travels so i had a little nap (i love these little naps in the heat of the day) and afterwards walked around siem reap. it's a pretty town but you can see that they expect more tourists to come. but sitting at the siem reap on a bench is a nice thing to do, especially when there is a nice young girl coming and asking you if she can talk to you. she started learning english three months ago and wanted to try to speak to a foreigner. she showed me her books and asked me for a few explanations and at the end came to late to her school. i didn't do anything special that day, just got organised for the next day (meaning having a driver who speaks english).

Mail from the same day, some hours later:

on wednesday my cold i've caught in kampot got worse, but i still wanted to go for angkor wat. so i went there with my driver, who had told me he would give me informations etc., to angkor wat, where he just dropped me off without a word....
anyway, i won't write anything about the temples, you find better information everywhere.
in angkor wat i met conny and peter from austria and had a very nice talk with them. they were driving around on bicycles so i thought i better get one the next day instaed of a driver who doesn't really talk to me but wants to get me in these places to eat and drink all the time (they do belong to friends of him of course).
funny little thing happened inbetween, two buddhist monks came to me to ask me if they can take a photo with me!
from angkor wat to angkor thom and bayon and i must say i didn't enjoy it really because my cold was getting worse through the day. so coming out of bayon i told my driver to get me back.
i've spent the afternoon in bed trying to relax and do something healthy to me. later on i walked a bit around siem reap to figure out where i could hire a bike.

next morning i got a bike for $2 and the first thing i did was driving to the crocodile farm - don't go there it's just crap! trying to go back i found a flat tyre on my bike, so i had to get someone to repair it. there was a quite big hole in the tyre. actually that bike was not really comfy anyway so i went back to get one of the bikes you see everyone else cruising around with instead of a fake mountainbike. after finishing all that stuff i was ready to go back to the temples.
the day before i had seen a sign on the street saying free exhibition about the tonle sap. so i stopped there and i must say that was very good. a very informative exhibition about life on, in and around the lake.
to go by bike was a good decision, i enjoyed it much more. you stop whereever you want, people smile at you, little boys try to have a race with you - it's defenetly more fun than sitting on the back of a motorbike. eventually i met peter again at one of the small temples in the jungle and we went together for lunch (conny was lying with a very bad cold including fever in the hotel).
it was a great day, although i lost my track sometimes (my map was just crap) but i had a good time. i couldn't sit very good afterwards, the bike wasn't that comfy as it first seemed but then who cares.

i kept the bike for the next day, to see a bit more of siem reap and the area around. so after getting up and having breakfast i went to the market and from there to the "massage of the blind". they usually open at 10 am (i didn't know, but then they said if i would wait for ten minutes i can even have a massage at 8.30 am.
that was fantastic! lying there for an hour, getting a wonderful relaxing massage - i just love this!
afterwards i cruised a bit around the village till it was time to got to the market for lunch. that day i tried to finish the diary for the time since sihanoukville, but because i don't like to sit in an internetcafe for hours at one time i just started it and then went back to the hotel to figure out where to go next. good move/bad move - i'm not sure, but getting back i met ross again, had a chat and that day the rainseason started officially for me. no way to go to write more e-mails.
the only thing was i still had the bike. i waited for a few hours to see if the rain would stop or get less, it didn't look like it. so i got my raincoat and brought the bike back through the river that used to be the road. coming back i was completely soaked. at the end i sat the rest of the afternoon and part of the night up with ross and steven and guy, drinking beer.

on saturday i had to get up at 5am again to take the minibus to skoun (now i know why most people take the boat to siem reap both ways), where i changed buses to get to kampong cham. i've been told there's not a lot in kampong cham but it still looked less attractive then i expected, perhaps because it rained all the time. but the place i stayed in was fun, five khmer women gathering around me enjoying themselves and trying to have a conversation with me. i did learn a few new khmer words but it was still weird. and you wouldn't believe how fast you can get rid of five bracelets.... anyway i had a great time with them, sometimes a bit scary (is she wearing a bra or not, let's have a look) but altogether spending a night in kampong cham was not the badest idea.

you wouldn't believe but the next morning i had to get up at 5 am again(!!!) (you do get used to that) to catch the slowboat to kratie. slowboat means there are only khmer going with it, it does stop everywhere and it takes abot 2,5 hours longer then the speedboat, and it is much more fun. this time i could see everything, there was a lot of space, people were getting on the boat to sell you food and drinks and nobody speaks english. but what do you have your hands and face for, joking around with the kids, reading a bit, eating a lot, great! about an hour before we got to kratie it started to rain again... but when we arrived in kratie it stopped after about 15 min so we waited on the boat for the end of the rain.
walking up the stairs someone asked me where i wanted to go to (like everywhere you get, there is always minimum one person, most times ten, at the same time). star guest house as ange had said. it was actually soteara asking me, who's the owner's son. so i got there on a motorbike without paying although it was in walking distance. i was quite naked after getting up that early for two days and mainly travelling the last days so when soteara told me they only had one room with share bath left i said alright (not a good idea as i found out during the night). being so tired i didn't move a lot that day (no dolphins - no walk - nothing), i actually sat together with tog (soteara's younger sister) and she told me about her dreams for the future and about her life. then i met sarah from belgium and after a very short time i was part of the family like sarah. tog told me i should get married to soteara so that she can go on studying (because i would have to pay his parents) and after that she always called me sister in law which i changed into going to be sister in law. it was funny. their mother gave us lunch and dinner and it was like that for the time i've been staying with them. poun, the oldest sister, always called me just sister and i must say to meet these people was something very special.

The third mail from the same day, some hours later again:

it's a bit tricky to write about the last week. i didn't really do a lot during the days, it was always something happening but it's difficult to describe. i think the best way is to say something mainly about the week and then describe some special events or however you would call it.
i've spent the most time staying in the hotel or just around, living in a way like part of the family or a friend of the family. the mother was cooking often not only for the family but also for sarah and me and we weren't allowed to pay for the food.
so we shared cookies or fruits or cigarettes we bought with them. i had a lot of long talks with tog, soteara and poun, something i enjoyed very much. or sarah and i played with makara, the little son of one of the woman who was selling jewelry next to the guest house. it rained quite a lot, and watching all the kids playing in the street, life around the market was really fun. friends of soteara came around to have talks with us, it was just a great time.

anyway a few details, monday was my fathers birthday so i thought i should call him. wow, that costs a lot ($2,50 a minute), but i think he was glad to hear from me, although i couldn't really follow his invitation to come around for a cup of tea and a piece of cake. that night i tried heaps of new fruits, i love that, there is such an amazing variety of wonderful fruits.

i nearly forgot there was something about making a mistake with my room. it was actually so loud in there, just thin wooden walls, i could hear every single noise from everywhere. so i barely got a bit of sleep. so changing rooms was the main thing for me to do. i got a wonderful big room with my own bathroom!

anyway, the special thing for tuesday 15th was to see the dolphins. close to kratie there is a place where you can watch freshwater dolphins. everyone says you should either go for the sunrise or the sunset. like most people i decided to go for the sunset. so i got a driver, who drove like he was one of the hell's angels. being about 2 km out of town it started pouring rain so heavily that i told him to stop and turn back. coming back i looked like i had been having a shower in my clothes. i actually made a new plan that night while talking to sarah: stay a bit longer in kratie, skip stung treng and ratanakiri for now and come back mid september via laos. otherwise i would have been in a rush and probably might have to take the plane back to phnom penh.

wednesday morning regine and laura from germany tried to get on the pick up to ratanakiri. they went to the place where the pick ups are at 6 am, as they were told, but because they were the onlyones the driver said they should come back around 11 am. gina gave me a pair of trousers i had to make a bit smaller and shorter, but they are quite comfy. anyway, before they left soteara came back from scholl and took me to the dolphins. very peaceful, just gliding through the water, me sitting there and watching them, nice. i think these were the only few hours of the day while it wasn't raining. on the way back soteara bought a bomboo stick which you have to crack open and then its filled with sweet sticky rice.
back in kratie it started raining again and as it was pouring down regine and laura came back completly soaked. the pick up had left at 1pm and after driving for about half an hour it was stuck in the mud. it took them 3/4 of an hour to get out of the mud and then they drove back to kratie (they took the boat to stung treng the next day).

thursday was my last day in kratie. i got a haircut from christine (the second one she tried) after watching ashley shaving marks hair off. i was thinking of shaving mine as well but i think a haircut was a better idea. for lunch i got a fishsoup which was a bit tricky to eat. they clean the fish just from the inside and then put it in one piece or just cut in halfs in the soup. so i had a bit to do before i actually could eat the soup. i'm not sure what actually gave the reason at the end the two cans of beer in the evening or the fishsoup or the fish swimming in the beer in my stomach plus feeling not that good for the last 1,5 days, anyway something started to kill my stomach during that night. defenitly not the crickets or cockroaches because i didn't eat them. but it was amazing watching the people going mad. because it was not raining heaps of these beasts were out and quite big ones and everyone was running around trying to catch them filling into bottles to fry them later on and in the middle of the chaos tog and me trying to play badminton in the dark. it's not easy to describe, but this was one of the best weeks i had since leaving tassie.

next morning was a big goodbye, everyone waving to me, it was a bit sad. but then probably i'll be back in a few months.
anyway i took the speedboat to get back to phnom penh. wow, did i feel horrible. my stomach going in circles. of course i was sitting next to a mother with her little babygirl, whom she passed over to me for a while, and of course that little one loved walking on my belly!!! but it didn't wheeon me (didn't what???), that's something it saved for her mother. after about 5.5 hours i arrived in phnom penh and got a driver who took me to a guesthouse at the lake (i'm getting better and better on these bikes: big backpack plus small pack plus a bag and i never fell off). the lodge was alright just a bit to expensive but i was not in the mood to move again, the owner a bit to talkative (and i was the only customer) so not the place to stay more than one night. it was a good place to feel pity for myself. nice thing were the bats flying over the lake!

now we've got saturday 19th, i moved back to my old guesthouse and got my old room again (i didn't bump my head till now). the day i've spent with getting new books, going to one of the markets, having something to eat, going for a massage and spending to much time in this internetcafe! tomorrow i'll leave for sihanoukville, so i think the next infos will come when i'm in bangkok in about a week.
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